A
visit to Kenmare, 17th May, 2014
It's
not surprising that Kenmare was voted among the top 20 towns in the
world for retirement by the US magazine Fortune. Cork Chapter members
had a taste of what it has to offer on 17th May, from fine food and
history to impressive buildings in a magnificent region.
In
a sublime setting overlooking gardens and views of Kenmare Bay, the
Park Hotel was our first stop for a well-deserved
coffee break. While we sipped our coffee with delicious home
made-scones, Mr. Rory O'Sullivan, General Manager, gave us an
insightful talk on the history of the hotel, early tourism in Ireland
and the important contribution, in this regard, that the Great
Southern and Western Railway Company made. The Park Hotel was built
in 1897 by the Great Southern and Western Railway Company to a design
by James Franklin Fuller, in the Tudor Revival style. The limestone
ashlar facade is finely embellished with details, such as cut stone
chimney stacks, copings, sills and finials. The interior, which
follows this high standard of design, is much enhanced by antique
furnishings and some fine Dutch paintings, the latter collected by
its owner, Mr. Francis Brennan (one of the renowned brothers). In
earlier days the hotel provided accommodation to passengers en-route
to Parknasilla, 17 miles away.
The
Park Hotel's proximity to the town enabled a pleasant stroll to meet
our guide, Donal Slater. Having given us a 'potted history', Donal
led us on a stroll through some of Kenmare's most interesting sights.
The
town is part of the lands granted to William Petty by Cromwell in
1657, as payment for the Down Survey. In his song, Jimmy MacCarthy
refers to it as 'NeidÃn' and this was its name until 1775 when the
First Marquis of Lansdowne created the attractive “X” shaped
layout, that we see today, and renamed the town Kenmare. Henry Street
was named in honour of the 3rd Marquis, Henry Petty-Fitzmaurice
(1780-1863), who oversaw a number of major stages in the development
of Kenmare. Our Chairman, Kevin Hurley, was quick to acknowledge our
committee member, Catherine Fitzmaurice, as a direct descendant of
the Fitzmaurice family!
Donal's
account gave a colourful overview of how the town developed. It had
been a bustling hive of industry during the 19th century with, for
example, herring fishing, quarrying, iron works and its own butter
market. The
effects of the Great Famine of 1845 were devastating throughout
Ireland. Donal gave a vivid insight of Kenmare's sad history at this
time, as we learnt that dead bodies were removed from the streets in
the early hours before the town opened for business.
The
Old Market House was designed in the classical style by Sir Charles
Barry for the 3rd Marquis of Lansdowne. The nearby Emmet Place,
formerly known as Pound Lane due to the location of cattle pound,
features attractive one and a half story houses with painted timber
bargeboards on the gabled half dormers. On the far side of 'The
Green' is the Holy Cross Church, designed by Charles Hansom in the
1860s. Unfortunately, due to its current restoration programme, we
were unable to view its interior. Fr. John O'Sullivan was responsible
for the building and Donal revealed that folklore suggests he placed
a cock on top of the spire to crow over the office of the landlord's
agent in the square who refused him a site for the church. Hansom
also designed the nearby convent of the Sisters of Poor Clare. The
order is credited with starting the lace making industry that become
world-renowned in the late 19th, early 20th century. Donal led us
away from the busy streets to the intriguing Cromwell's Bridge, built
of mud and stone, with its steep arch, that seems impossible to
cross! The bridge had nothing to do with Cromwell, and is believed to
have been built in the 11th century as a crossing for the local monks
to Lady's Well. There were many more snippets of history, however,
too numerous to mention here.
Lunch
was at Dromquinna Boathouse Bistro, run by John Brennan. Our group
have become well acquainted with each other over the years, and this
was evident in the fun and conversation that took place while we
enjoyed the delicious fare. We were well set up for the next leg of
our journey.
Arriving
at Dromore Castle was a breathtaking experience. This neo-gothic
style castle was built in the early nineteenth century, by Sir Thomas
Deane for Rev. Denis Mahony, and is two storeys over a basement. The
entrance front is dominated by a machicolated round tower, turret and
porch tower. John McCormick is said to have performed here in the
great Hall. The impressive gatehouse was designed by Benjamin
Woodward.
Since
purchasing this exquisite building in the 1990s, Kevin O'Callaghan
has invested copious resources with equal amounts of T.L.C into the
remarkable restoration project. His relaxed attitude with regard to
the monumental task of preserving the building, one of Kerry's most
important historical gems, is truly admirable. Skillful decorative
painting is everywhere to be seen, from the woodgraining of the faux
coffered hall ceiling to its faux marbled fireplace. Timber work such
as doors, shutters and the grand staircase have been restored to
their original oak woodgrained finish. The interior and exterior
walls of the enormous porch have had their trompe l'oeil ashlar stone
effect meticulously repainted. The gardens and out-buildings are
similarly extensive and a
work-in-progress
of similar scale.
Our
visit spotlighted Kenmare as not only an attractive tourist
destination, but as a residents' paradise for the wealthy down
through the years. It was a top residential and retirement spot long
before Fortune
conducted its survey, although as our excursion showed, there is no
need to wait until retirement to enjoy the many treats in store at
Kenmare.
The
committee would like to thank the Brennan brothers for their
excellent hospitality, Donal Slater for his enthusiastic and
educational tour and Kevin O'Callaghan for his generosity of time and
for allowing us the freedom to explore Dromore Castle and its
splendid grounds.
