Date: Sunday, 22nd June, 2014
Mid-summer, with
its long halcyon days, is always an exciting time of year in Ireland and this
was especially so when Cork Chapter members and friends departed by coach from
Little Island on their much anticipated day out on Sunday 22nd June, 2014.
Having
rendezvoused with our Kerry members at an agreed point off the M8, the rest of
our coach journey was an easy and pleasant one, arriving in good time for
morning refreshments at the CaToCa Tea Rooms within the demesne of Emo Court. Here, we thoroughly
relaxed and, little by little, found ourselves before the formal neo-Classical
Palladian mansion entrance.
The house is
unique for many reasons, not least because it is one of the few Irish historic
homes designed by James Gandon (1790) for his client, John Dawson, the first
Earl of Portarlington.
18th-century visitors to the house must have been impressed (as were
were on that June morning) by the entrance front of the building, dominated, as
it is, by a pediment supported by four graceful Ionic pillars. The Earl’s coat of arms fills the
pediment and to the left and right of it, are 18th-century friezes depicting
agriculture and the arts. Heraldic
tigers guard the entrance steps setting the tone and mood for our progress into
the house.
But before
entering, let us pause for a moment to consider the owners of this wonderful
place. It is a fortunate house as
it remained in the hands of the Earls of Portarlington until 1920. In 1930 it
came into the possession of the Jesuits, and Major Cholmeley Cholmeley-Harrison
became the owner in 1969. Happily,
the house then underwent a process of restoration providing pleasure for
visitors like us to enjoy today.
There is much in
the interior of this house with which to be charmed, but what commanded our
attention were the three rooms comprising the marble saloon, the present day
library and the drawing room. The marble saloon’s double dome height and
magnificent coffered ceiling just took one’s breath away. In the distant past, this room must
have had many a story to tell as it linked the dining room and the present
library. Guests could wander through the saloon or linger there as they partook
in the sumptuous late Georgian and Victorian house balls. But, leaving my imagination to one
side, we were gratified to see the coat-of-arms of both the Major and the Earls
of Portarlinghton side-by-side in the relatively recently restored inlaid
parquet floor - thus bringing the story of the ownership of the house together in
a meaningful way. In the library,
the beautiful rococo carrara marble fireplace, amongst other delights, were
warmly appreciated too. But it was
the sheer opulence and grandeur of the drawing room that made it the most
impressive of the three rooms. Having
the proportions of a long gallery, it is a spectacular space divided into three
parts by green marble Ionic columns topped with gilt capitals. The décor is green reflecting both the
green of the marble inside and the green of the garden outside – an amazing room!
By early
afternoon, we had lunched and were eager to explore Russborough House with our
superb guide, Joan Griffith. Like
Emo, Russborough is a fine example of Palladian architecture and the group was
keen to compare the two houses. Russborough was built for Joseph Leeson (later
to be made 1st Earl of Milltown) in 1755 and was designed by Richard
Cassels. Like Emo, Russboro also
benefited from solid ownership right up to the early 20th-century, when it
passed through a number of owners, including the philanthropists, Sir Alfred
and Lady Beit.
Russborough has
been described as the most beautiful house in Ireland and our group were really
interested in seeing the displays of fine stucco work by the La Franchini. We were led up the magnificent
mahogany private staircase and gazed in wonder and delight at the sheer
beauty of the plasterwork ceilings and friezes. We were thrilled by the proportions of the state rooms, the
priceless paintings and fine furniture, the rich carpets and tapestries, the
exquisite porcelain, silver and bronzes. The group could only agree that
Russborough is truly ‘a Temple of Art’.
By now, late
afternoon was beckoning and we had
a long coach journey ahead of us. And, finding ourselves outdoors once
more looking south-east across to Lugnaquilla, the highest of the Wicklow
Mountains, we resolved to visit Russborough again soon as we had only seen a
fraction of what the house and parkland have to offer. But just then, tea, brack and the
homeward journey was on offer and we could not stay.
Thanks to the OPW
at Emo Court, the staff at Russborough, the Chapter Committee, members and
friends for making our mid-summer event such a memorable one.
